Watts to Amps Calculator

Pick a direction and a supply type and it converts, including the power factor that most calculators leave out. That omission matters: the same 1,500 W is 12.5 A as a heater and 15.6 A as a motor, and only one of those fits on a 15 A breaker. Every result also gives VA, reactive power, and the 125% figure a continuous load is sized to.

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How this watts to amps calculator works

Pick a direction, pick a supply type, and enter what you know. The arithmetic is straightforward; the part most converters get wrong is that on AC there is a third number, and leaving it out understates the current on exactly the loads where current matters most.

Every result also gives the apparent power in VA, the reactive power, and the figure a breaker would be sized to for a continuous load, because those are the numbers you actually need once you are doing anything with the answer.

The formula

DC: P = V × I
AC single phase: P = V × I × PF
AC three phase: P = √3 × V × I × PF
apparent power (VA) = V × I, or √3 × V × I
continuous load breaker rating = I × 1.25

PF is the power factor, the fraction of the apparent power that does real work. It is 1 for anything purely resistive, around 0.8 for a typical induction motor, and 0.9 to 0.95 for most modern electronics with corrected supplies. The √3 in the three-phase line is there because a three-phase supply delivers on three conductors whose peaks are 120 degrees apart, so the total is not simply three times the single-phase figure. Being out by that 1.732 is the single most common three-phase error, in both directions.

Worked example

A 1,500 W space heater on 120 V. A heater is purely resistive, so the power factor is 1 and the answer is the simple one: 1,500 ÷ 120 = 12.5 A. On a 15 A circuit that is 83% of the breaker, which is why two of them on one circuit trips it and why the label warns you.

Now the same 1,500 W as a motor at 0.8 power factor. The current becomes 1,500 ÷ (120 × 0.8) = 15.6 A, which is 25% more, and it has just gone over the same 15 A breaker. The motor is doing exactly the same 1,500 watts of real work. The wiring is simply carrying more current to deliver it.

That gap is the whole reason power factor is on this page. The naive answer, watts divided by volts, is right for heaters and wrong for everything with a coil in it, and it is wrong in the direction that undersizes the circuit.

Watts, volt-amps, and the number on the label

Real power in watts is energy actually consumed. Apparent power in VA is voltage multiplied by current, which is what the conductors, the breaker and the connections physically carry. When the power factor is 1 the two are equal; the further it falls, the further they diverge.

The difference has a name, reactive power, measured in VAR, and it is not wasted energy in the way losses in a wire are. It sloshes back and forth between the supply and the load's magnetic or capacitive parts every cycle, doing no net work and going home again. A domestic meter does not bill you for it, which is why power factor is invisible on a house bill. Commercial customers are frequently billed for demand in kVA rather than kW, which is exactly why power factor correction equipment exists and why it pays for itself in a factory and never in a kitchen.

The practical version: a device labelled in VA is not telling you its watts. A 1,500 VA UPS is not a 1,500 W UPS, and the gap between them is the power factor the manufacturer assumed, often 0.6 on older units and 0.9 to 1.0 on newer ones. Our UPS runtime calculator goes into that one in detail, because it is the specification most commonly misread when someone buys a backup supply.

The 125% rule, and what it is actually about

Every result here shows the current multiplied by 1.25. That is the standard treatment for a continuous load, meaning one expected to run for three hours or more, and the overcurrent device and conductor are sized to that inflated figure rather than to the actual draw.

It is worth knowing what the rule is protecting, because it is not the appliance. Circuit breakers are calibrated at a defined ambient temperature and their tripping characteristics drift as the enclosure warms up, which it does when a load runs for hours in a panel full of other loads. The 125% margin is headroom for that thermal reality, not a claim that the appliance draws more than it says. It also means the familiar advice not to load a circuit past 80% is the same rule stated backwards: 1 divided by 1.25 is 0.8.

Two things this page deliberately does not do. It does not size conductors, because ampacity depends on insulation type, ambient temperature and how many conductors share a raceway, and getting that wrong is a fire rather than an inconvenience. And it does not account for motor inrush, which can be six to eight times the running current for a second or so at startup and is why motor circuits have their own sizing rules entirely. For the length of a run rather than its size, our voltage drop calculator handles the other half of the problem.

Frequently asked questions

How do I convert watts to amps?

Divide watts by volts for DC. For single-phase AC, divide by volts times the power factor; for three-phase, divide by 1.732 times volts times the power factor. A 1,500 W heater on 120 V draws 12.5 A because a heater's power factor is 1. The same 1,500 W as a motor at 0.8 power factor draws 15.6 A, which is 25% more and no longer fits on a 15 A breaker.

What is power factor and do I need it?

It is the fraction of the apparent power that does real work, and you need it for anything that is not purely resistive. Heaters, kettles and incandescent lamps are 1.0. A typical induction motor is around 0.8, and most modern electronics with corrected supplies are 0.9 to 0.95. Ignoring it always understates the current, which is the dangerous direction, because the wiring and the breaker carry the larger number.

Why is there a 1.732 in the three-phase formula?

Because that is the square root of 3, and a three-phase supply delivers power on three conductors whose peaks are 120 degrees apart, so the total is not simply three times the single-phase figure. Being out by that factor is the single most common three-phase mistake, in both directions: forgetting it overstates the current by 73%, and applying it twice understates it by the same.

What is the difference between watts and VA?

Watts are real power, the energy actually consumed. VA is apparent power, voltage times current, which is what the conductors and the breaker physically carry. They are equal only when the power factor is 1. The practical version is that a device labelled in VA is not telling you its watts: a 1,500 VA UPS is not a 1,500 W UPS, and the gap is whatever power factor the manufacturer assumed.

What is reactive power and am I billed for it?

Reactive power, measured in VAR, is energy that sloshes back and forth between the supply and the load's magnetic or capacitive parts every cycle without doing net work. Domestic meters do not bill for it, which is why power factor is invisible on a house bill. Many commercial tariffs bill demand in kVA rather than kW, which is exactly why power factor correction equipment pays for itself in a factory and never in a kitchen.

Why size a breaker at 125% of the load?

Because a load running three hours or more is treated as continuous, and breakers are calibrated at a defined ambient temperature while their tripping behaviour drifts as the panel warms up. The 125% margin is headroom for that thermal reality rather than a claim that the appliance draws more than it says. It is also the same rule as the familiar advice not to load a circuit past 80%, since 1 divided by 1.25 is 0.8.

Can I size wire from this calculator?

No, and deliberately not. Ampacity depends on insulation type, ambient temperature and how many conductors share a raceway, and getting it wrong is a fire rather than an inconvenience. This page gives you the current; NEC 310.16 and its derating tables give you the conductor. Our voltage drop calculator handles the separate question of how long the run can be.

Does this account for motor startup current?

No. Motor inrush can be six to eight times the running current for a second or so at startup, which is why motor circuits have their own sizing rules and why a motor can trip a breaker that its running current sits comfortably under. The figure here is steady-state running current, which is the right number for energy and for conductor heating, and the wrong number for choosing a breaker curve.

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