How the wallpaper calculator works
Wallpaper goes up in full-height strips, and that one fact decides how much you buy. A roll is not a pile of square feet you can spread around; it is a long ribbon you cut into strips as tall as your wall plus a little extra to trim at the ceiling and floor. Whatever is left at the end of the roll, if it is too short to make another full strip, never becomes a strip. So the honest way to count is the way paperhangers count: how many strips your walls need, how many whole strips each roll gives, and how many rolls that takes.
A pattern adds one more rule. With a straight match every strip has to start at the same point in the design so the motifs line up across the seams, which means rounding each strip up to the next whole repeat. With a drop match the neighboring strips start half a repeat apart. The calculator cuts your strips from each roll in turn, both ways, and shows you the waste in inches.
The formula
strip length = wall height + trim (straight match: rounded up to the next repeat)
strips per roll = the whole strips that fit in one roll
rolls = strips ÷ strips per roll, rounded up
Measure around the room for the wall width, or wall by wall for walls that do not meet. The trim is 2 inches at the top and 2 at the bottom, as Brewster's measuring guide suggests, and the repeat is the pattern's vertical repeat from the roll label. Each door and window replaces the full strips it is wide enough to swallow, and the short pieces above and below it come out of what is left at the end of the rolls.
Worked example
A 14 by 12 ft room with 8 ft walls, one door and two windows, papered from standard double rolls (20.5 in by 33 ft) with a straight match and a 21 in repeat. Around the room is 52 ft, or 624 in, which is 30.44 strip widths: 31 strips. The door and each window replace one full strip, so 28 strips.
Each strip is 96 in of wall plus 4 in of trim, 100 in, and a 21 in repeat rounds that up to 105 in of roll. A 396 in roll holds 3 strips with 86 in left over, so 28 strips need 9.33 rolls: 10 rolls.
Now the square-foot way: 416 sq ft of wall minus 51 sq ft of openings is 365 sq ft, and 365 divided by the roll's 56.38 sq ft is 6.47, which rounds up to 7 rolls. That is three rolls short, 30 percent of the order, on a perfectly ordinary bedroom.
The 8 ft wall and the 33 ft roll
Here is what surprised us. On an 8 ft wall, the repeat was not what cost those three rolls. A 33 ft roll is 396 inches, and a strip for an 8 ft wall with 4 inches of trim is 100 inches, so each roll gives three strips and has 96 inches left over: a perfectly good 8 ft length of paper, four inches too short to hang. That leftover is the gap between the square feet on the label and the strips on your wall, and it is there with no pattern at all. A 12 by 12 room with 8 ft walls and a random-match paper takes 29 strips, which is 10 rolls; wall area divided by roll area says 7.
Those leftovers are not wasted if you plan for them: they are where the short pieces over doors and windows come from, which is exactly how the calculator uses them. And they explain a near miss worth knowing about. With 3 inches of trim instead of 4, each strip is 99 inches and a roll gives four of them, so that same room takes 8 rolls. The calculator flags this whenever a trim of up to 2 inches less would add a strip to every roll, because few ceilings and floors are level enough to make shaving the trim safe, and the choice is yours.
So which question is the square-foot method answering? It is the right answer to "how much paper ends up on the wall", and the makers who describe it also tell you to allow extra for the repeat and the trimming. The strip count is how you find out how much extra, on your wall.
Big repeats: it is how the repeat fits, not how big it is
A large repeat can cost a whole strip on every roll, but only when it lands badly against your wall height. Take the same 14 by 12 room with 10 ft walls: 124 inch strips. A 24 inch straight repeat rounds each strip up to 144 inches, so a roll gives only 2 strips and the room takes 14 rolls. A bigger 27 inch repeat rounds each strip to 135 inches, three still fit, and the room takes 11 rolls. The square-foot method says 9 for both. A drop match with the same 24 inch repeat also gets 3 strips from each roll, because starting every other strip half a repeat down happens to waste less at that height. Makers' guides say to allow more for a drop match, which is sensible when you do not know the wall; once you do, the calculator's table shows your wall at every common repeat.
Buy every roll from the same batch
Every roll label carries a batch number, also called the run or dye lot number. Wallpaper is printed in runs, and each run is printed with its own mix of ink, so rolls from two different runs can differ in shade by just enough to show at a seam where they meet on a wall. Order all your rolls at once, check that the numbers match before you open any of them, and if you ever need more later, ask for the same batch. Farrow and Ball suggest adding one more roll to whatever you estimate, for trimming and mistakes, and a spare from the same batch is the only repair patch that will ever match exactly.
Double rolls, single rolls and the European roll
In the US, wallpaper is often priced by the single roll but sold only in double rolls, also called bolts: one continuous roll twice as long, typically 20.5 inches by 33 feet. That double roll is almost exactly the European standard roll, 53 cm by 10 m, so a double roll in Chicago and a roll in London hang about the same wall. Peel and stick rolls are usually the single length, 20.5 inches by 16.5 feet, which on an 8 ft wall means one strip per roll at 4 inches of trim or two at 3 inches. If you are painting the other walls, our paint calculator handles those, and the drywall calculator covers the walls underneath.