How this pressure washing calculator works
This page has two readers and it is built for both of them at once. If you own the machine, you are here to answer "what should I charge for this driveway, and what do I actually keep?" If you own the driveway, you are here to answer "is $350 reasonable for 1,200 square feet?" Those turn out to be the same arithmetic read from opposite ends, so we built the operator's version and let the homeowner's answer fall out of it. Every result carries a market range line for exactly that reason.
Pick how you price (per square foot, per hour, or flat), enter the job, and the calculator runs the whole waterfall: what the job bills, what the chemicals and the driving and the wear on the machine cost, what self-employment tax takes, and what you keep. Then it does the thing almost no pricing guide does, and shows you the hourly rate you are really earning once the drive and the setup are counted as part of the job. Your results will vary. Rates, chemical prices, and how many jobs a week you can actually book swing hard by market and by season, so treat this as the levers rather than a promise.
The formula
job costs = chemicals + (drive miles × 24.04 cents) + (equipment cost ÷ 1,200 billable hours × hours on site) + insurance share
hours of your day = hours on site + drive miles ÷ 30 mph + setup and teardown
real dollars an hour = (job price - job costs - self-employment tax) ÷ hours of your day
self-employment tax = 15.3% × 92.35% × annual profit (once net earnings reach $400)
The 24.04 cents is AAA's 2025 fuel (13 cents) plus maintenance, repair, and tires (11.04 cents), the honest marginal cost of driving a truck you would own anyway, pinned to the same figure our robotaxi cost calculator uses. The 1,200 billable hours is the denominator the pricing guides themselves use to spread a machine's cost (their worked example puts a $6,000 machine at $5 an hour). The 30 mph is our own estimate for a suburban round trip and is the softest number on this page, so it is stated rather than buried. Self-employment tax is statutory, and our quarterly tax calculator handles the payments.
Worked example
A 1,000 square foot concrete driveway at 22.5 cents a square foot (the middle of the published 15 to 30 cent band), 2.5 hours on site, 20 miles round trip, $10 of chemicals, a $4,000 rig, $75 a month of liability insurance, at 4 jobs a week.
The job bills $225.00. Costs are $10.00 of chemicals, $4.81 of driving, an $8.33 equipment reserve, and $7.03 of insurance, so $194.83 is left before tax and $168.77 after self-employment tax. That is the headline: you keep about $169 on this $225 driveway.
Now the number that decides whether to take it. The job is 2.5 hours of spraying, 40 minutes of driving, and 30 minutes of setup and teardown: 3 hours 40 minutes of your day. Against the spraying alone it looks like $90.00 an hour. Against the whole thing, after every cost and after tax, it is $46.03 an hour. The invoice is not lying. It is just answering a different question than the one your day asked.
A season at this pace: 128 jobs, $21,602.24 net, which is $1,800.19 a month averaged over a full year. Held all 52 weeks it would be $35,586.67, which is what a Sun Belt operator can chase and a Minnesota one cannot.
Paying off the rig: about 20 jobs like this one, roughly 5 weeks at 4 jobs a week. That count uses what the job keeps before the equipment reserve ($203.16), because the reserve is money already earmarked for the same machine and charging both would charge you twice for one washer.
The homeowner check: 1,000 square feet of concrete driveway quotes in the $150 to $300 range at published market rates, so $225 sits comfortably inside it.
Three ways to price, and when each one wins
Per square foot wins on flatwork: driveways, sidewalks, patios, parking lots. You measure the thing you are spraying, the customer can check your arithmetic, and the number scales honestly with the work. Published 2026 guides put residential flatwork between 15 and 75 cents a square foot depending on surface, with concrete at the cheap end (15 to 30 cents) and roof soft washing at the expensive end (35 to 75 cents), because a roof is slower, riskier, and chemical-heavy.
Per hour wins when you genuinely cannot predict the time: heavy oil staining, restoration work, multi-story access, anything where a wall might take one pass or four. Guides put the trade at $60 to $160 an hour. The catch is that hourly pricing quietly punishes you for getting faster, which is the opposite of what a business wants, so most operators use it as a fallback rather than a default.
Flat pricing is what nearly every homeowner is actually quoted, and it is the model that hides the most from the person doing the quoting. A flat number contains no evidence about whether it covers the drive, the chemicals, or the two hours you lost to a hose reel. That is fine as long as you built it from the arithmetic first, which is what this page is for. Notice a detail in the published flat rates: a driveway quotes at $100 to $300 while the square foot math on a typical 400 to 600 square foot driveway produces only $60 to $180. The market's own flat rates sit above its own square foot rates on small jobs, and the reason is the next section.
The drive-time truth, in one piece of arithmetic
Here is the thing every operator learns in year two and no pricing guide puts in a headline. Your drive and your setup cost the same whether the job is a sidewalk or a shopping centre. They are fixed, and fixed costs are brutal on small jobs.
Take the worked example and cut it in half. A 500 square foot driveway at the same 22.5 cents bills $112.50 and takes 1.25 hours of spraying. But the drive is still 40 minutes and the setup is still 30, so it is 2 hours 25 minutes of your day and it keeps $91.49. Now double the original instead: 2,000 square feet bills $450.00, takes 5 hours on site, 6 hours 10 minutes of your day, and keeps $401.49. Same rate, same customer, same truck.
Read those as dollars per hour of your actual day and the three jobs pay $37.86, $53.13, and $65.11. The big job pays 72 percent more per hour than the small one at an identical price per square foot. Nothing about your skill changed; the drive and the setup simply did not get any shorter when the job did.
This is why experienced operators turn down small jobs across town, and why they often sound rude doing it. They are not being precious. They have run this number. It is also why the minimum service charge exists: $100 to $150 at most shops, up to $250 at some, and it is not greed, it is the fixed half of the job wearing a price tag. The practical move is not to refuse small work, it is to route it. Three small jobs on one street share one drive, and the arithmetic stops being ugly immediately.
Soft wash versus high pressure, and the roof you must not blast
This is the safety and liability section, and it is short because the rule is short. High pressure belongs on concrete. It does not belong on a roof, and mostly does not belong on siding.
A pressure washer removes dirt with force. Soft washing removes it with chemistry: a low-pressure application of sodium hypochlorite and surfactant, left to dwell, then rinsed. On an asphalt shingle roof the difference is not stylistic. High pressure strips the protective granules off the shingles, which is the layer standing between the asphalt and the sun, and a roof that loses its granules loses years. The Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association's published guidance is low-pressure chemical cleaning, and most shingle manufacturers explicitly exclude pressure-cleaned roofs from their warranty. So the homeowner who hires the cheapest roof cleaner can end up paying for a roof, and the operator who brings a wand to a roof can end up in the middle of that conversation.
Siding is the same argument with lower stakes. Vinyl, painted wood, and stucco can all be driven full of water or stripped of finish by a wand held too close, and water forced up behind a lap board does not come back out on schedule. That is why a "house wash" in this trade almost always means a soft wash, and it is why the chemical line on a house is the biggest one on this page while the pressure is the smallest.
If you are a homeowner reading a quote, this is your single best question: "is that soft washed or pressure washed?" The answer tells you more about who you are hiring than the price does.
What the chemicals actually cost
Less than most people guess, and more than most beginners budget. Twelve and a half percent sodium hypochlorite runs about $2 to $3 a gallon in bulk from equipment suppliers, and $4 to $6 out west. A typical 2,000 square foot house pulls roughly 4 to 5 gallons of it through a downstream injector to land the standard mix on the wall, plus surfactant at 2 to 4 ounces per gallon of mix, which is another $1 to $3. All in, a house wash is about $14 to $23 of chemicals in a typical market and $9 to $18 in a cheap one. A driveway is less, often around $10 of degreaser, since concrete does most of its work through pressure and a surface cleaner.
Water is deliberately not on the cost list, and here is the honest note about it: it is the customer's, off the customer's spigot. Your machine at about 4 gallons a minute pulls roughly 600 gallons in a two and a half hour driveway job, which sounds enormous and costs the homeowner a few dollars. The one case where that changes is a buffer tank job where you haul your own water, and then it is a real line item that this page does not price for you.
Insurance, without the scare tactics
General liability for a pressure washing business averages about $75 a month, or $895 a year, for a typical $1 million per occurrence and $2 million aggregate policy with a $500 deductible. A second source puts the band at $500 to $1,500 a year for that level of cover. That is the whole cost, and this page defaults it in rather than leaving it out, because leaving it out is how a business plan quietly becomes fiction.
Here is why the trade specifically needs it, stated plainly and once. Pressure washing is one of the few side businesses where the tool is capable of damaging the customer's property in a way that is visible, expensive, and unarguably yours: etched concrete, stripped paint, water driven behind siding, a shingle roof aged five years in an afternoon, a window seal blown. Add ladders and wet surfaces and there is a bodily-injury exposure too. None of that is likely on any given Saturday. All of it is survivable with a policy and potentially business-ending without one.
The other reason is commercial. Property managers, HOAs, and real estate agents are the customers who book repeatedly and pay on time, and most of them will ask for a certificate of insurance before they will book you at all. At $75 a month, the policy tends to pay for itself in access before it ever pays for itself in claims.
Seasonality, and why the annual number has an asterisk
In most of the country this is a spring and summer business. Freezing weather ends it outright (water in a pump is a broken pump), spring brings the green algae everyone finally notices, and the late-autumn rush is people getting the house presentable before the holidays. This page prices a season at 32 weeks, which is our own estimate of the working window in a mid-latitude market, and it also shows the 52-week figure so you can see the gap. Florida, Texas, and Arizona operators can chase something close to the year-round number; a northern operator cannot, and a business plan built on 52 weeks in Michigan is a business plan built on a warm January.
Two things the good operators do with that. They stack the shoulder seasons deliberately, because March and October are when the phone rings and the competition is still winterised. And they attach a second service to the same truck for the cold months, usually gutter cleaning, holiday lighting, or snow work, so the fixed costs (the insurance, the truck, the phone) have something to sit on when the washer is drained.
If you are the homeowner reading a quote
Run the calculator with your square footage and read the market range line, then use this to interpret the gap. A quote goes up legitimately for: height and access (a second story, a steep roof, a fenced back garden the hose has to reach), the age and severity of the staining (an oil-stained driveway or a north-facing wall of black algae is a slower job), the surface (roofs and decks cost more per square foot than concrete for good reasons), whether the price includes both sides of a fence, whether it includes a sealer afterwards, and whether the company is insured, which you should ask about directly.
A quote goes down legitimately for: a big simple flat area (you are buying the operator's best hour of the day), several jobs booked at once on the same visit, and being on the same street as a job they already have, which is the routing advantage in the section above turned to your benefit.
A quote that is dramatically below the market range is worth one extra question rather than instant delight. On flatwork it is often just a hungry newer operator, which is a fine deal. On a roof or on siding it can mean an uninsured wand, and the arithmetic on that goes badly for the person who owns the roof.
The 15.3 percent nobody withholds
Pressure washing income is self-employment income, so both halves of Social Security and Medicare land on you: 15.3 percent on 92.35 percent of your net profit, owed once net self-employment earnings reach $400 for the year, with nothing withheld by anybody. In the worked example that is $3,335.67 on a season's profit, and federal and state income tax come on top depending on your whole return.
The deduction that matters most here is the one you have to write down as it happens: every business mile. The IRS values them at 76 cents each for the second half of 2026, and this page uses that figure on the tax line even though it charges the honest 24.04 cents on the cost line, because those are two different questions about the same miles. In the worked example the mileage log is worth more than the driving actually costs. Our mileage reimbursement calculator prices the log, and our quarterly tax calculator tells you what the estimated payments should be. Set the money aside the day the customer pays you, not the day the bill arrives.